When the word “riesling” is read on a wine menu, many immediately believe with certainty that it must be sweet. But to paint all rieslings with the same sweet brush is to overlook the true diversity of this remarkable grape variety. So, why the sugary assumption? Let’s break down the stereotype and explore the world of dry reisling.
ABC Fine Wine & Spirits wine expert Jim Greely specializes in the wine regions of Spain, Portugal and the birthplace of riesling, Germany. He's traveled across the world tasting and learning about wine, from the regions of Bordeaux to Napa to Mendoza.
When the word “riesling” is read on a wine menu, many immediately believe with certainty that it must be sweet. But to paint all rieslings with the same sweet brush is to overlook the true diversity of this remarkable grape variety. So, why the sugary assumption? Let’s break down the stereotype and explore the world of dry reisling.
ABC Fine Wine & Spirits wine expert Jim Greely specializes in the wine regions of Spain, Portugal and the birthplace of riesling, Germany. He's traveled across the world tasting and learning about wine, from the regions of Bordeaux to Napa to Mendoza.
In his travels, he’s found that one wine varietal that is lauded by wine critics yet largely ignored by the wine-buying public: riesling.
Jim says that it’s even something of an inside joke among wine experts that riesling is the kid picked last in gym class, but for no reason at all. In fact, you can find a stellar bottle of riesling for $30 or less that pairs flawlessly with whatever’s on the dinner table and will improve with age if you’re patient enough to stow it away for a few years.
So, why has riesling failed to capture the attention and palates of white wine drinkers in the U.S.? Jim chalks it up to a persisting misconception that all rieslings are sweet. Quite a few bestselling rieslings produced in Germany are sweet, and many of these cheaper sweet wines became popular and plentiful overseas. This may explain some of the collective misconception.1
Don’t be mistaken, sweet is not synonymous with cheap. There are a plethora of high quality, sweet rieslings on the market. The bottom line, though, is that riesling can be sugary sweet or bone dry; it all depends on what bottle you’re uncorking.
Dry rieslings generally contain less than four grams of sugar per liter.2 This low sugar level allows the raw flavors of the riesling grape itself to take center stage; you’ll detect all of the varietal’s glorious brightness and minerality in a dry glass of riesling. This is why fans of the crisp, acidic flavors of sauvignon blanc or pinot grigio will become fast friends with dry riesling, Jim says.
Dry riesling also plays well with all kinds of dishes, from grilled pork chops to spicy Asian cuisine to fatty fried food. Its bracing acidity clears the palate between each bite and its richly layered tasting profile falls into step with whatever’s on your plate. Truly, you can’t miss with a bottle of dry riesling in your wine rack.
If you’re ready to give riesling a go, just look for the words “trocken” or “dry” in the riesling aisle or, Jim advises, or check out the sweetness scale included for every bottle of wine online or in-stores. If you want to know Jim’s personal favorites, keep scrolling for the top 10 dry rieslings he recommends adding to your wine basket ASAP.
Starting off strong with a 92-rated (James Suckling, 2021) bottle, Jim recommends this riesling from an historic estate in Germany whose viticulture dates to the year 966 CE. You’ll find fresh herbs and wild berries on the nose and a cool palate that perfectly balances juiciness and crisp acidity.
If you’re passionate about winemakers who practice sustainable farming, this 89-rated (Wine Enthusiast, 2021) riesling is for you. All wines produced at Weingut Pflüger have been Demeter-certified biodynamic since 2008. (Read more about biodynamic winemaking here.) Jim says this is an elegant wine displaying detailed floral aromas and tasting notes of juicy peach and crystalline grapefruit with a long, citrusy finish.
Established in 1597, Dr. Bürklin-Wolf is one of the largest family-owned wine estates in Germany. Jim says it is best known for its dry expressions of riesling from some of the Pfalz region’s top vineyard sites. You’ll enjoy generous pear and Mirabelle plum notes with bright acidity and hints of baking spice in this 92-rated (James Suckling, 2020) wine.
A coalition of Rheingau wine producers formed the “Charta” in 1984 to reestablish the classic, high-quality, dry style of riesling that was popular in the region during the 19th century, but had largely disappeared in favor of richer, sweeter styles. They also advocated for the resurrection of historic vineyard classifications that link wine quality with provenance, not sugar levels. Weingut Johannishof is one of these Rheingau estates producing Charta wines.
If all this is Greek (or German) to you, just know that if it’s Charta, it’s delicious. Jim picks up tasting notes of tangerine, apple and lime and a harmonic dryness.
Jim shares that this is a textbook dry riesling from the Pfalz region with inviting notes of green apple, apricot and lychee on a crisp, juicy frame. This is the ideal pour to pair with Asian cuisine and fresh seafood.
Ernst Loosen of Dr. Loosen is one of the top producers of sweet and dry riesling alike in Germany’s Mosel region. Jim says that this Loosen Bros label consistently offers phenomenal quality and value for the price, which is why this is a great “beginner’s” riesling and rated 90 points for its 2019 vintage from Wine Enthusiast. It’s slightly dry with fruit-forward flavors of fresh pear, lemon and apple.
Moving outside of Germany to the neighboring region of Alsace, France, Domaine Zinck also utilizes organic and biodynamic farming practices to produce crisp, clean and refreshing riesling. This one has tasting notes of lemon zest, chamomile and golden delicious apple. ABC customer JerseyGirlTravel had this to say in their review of this bottle on our website: “We had this wine at an ABC tasting and picked up a bottle for home. It is a very nice Riesling; dry enough to go with food, yet it has a slight residual sweetness which makes it very nice for sipping on a warm summer evening.”
Jim shares that outside of Europe, Australian wineries have garnered praise for well-made, terroir-driven dry riesling. Aussie winemaker John Hughes is the self-proclaimed “Riesling Freak” at Rieslingfreak, and his obsession has paid off in this 93-rated (Wine Advocate, 2022) riesling with lifted citrus and sweet spice notes that run the length of the palate.
Forge Cellars runs along Seneca Lake in upstate New York and focuses on single-vineyard expressions of dry riesling, pinot noir and cabernet franc from 16 distinct parcels of land. This 91-rated (Wine Spectator, 2019) riesling’s delicate white peach and chamomile notes combine for a mouthwateringly vibrant finish that will pair beautifully with your next charcuterie board or bucket of oysters.
Yet another riesling hailing from Seneca Lake in Finger Lakes wine country, Fox Run Dry Riesling comes from a family-run, estate-grown, small-production winery that makes zesty, complex wines. In this 89-point rating in Wine Spector you’ll get tons of flavor intensity in every sip with mouth-filling lemon and pear notes and bold acidity on a long finish. Next time you crack open a lobster tail or some crab legs, make sure a glass of this stuff is close by.
